Reports: During the work is everything. As kavajers liner. Something that gives the garment balance, flexibility and shape. Our site interviews Christoffer Parling, Scandinavian agent for the Italian Mabro and Luciano Barbera, to understand the importance of this detail.
Shims are easily explained cloth which is fixed between two layers of fabric to provide selected parts of the garment shape and support. For the jacket, they are used particularly for breast, stroke, shoulders, collar, the cuffs and pocket flaps. In traditional Mr tailor sewn these solid after pikeringsteknik, which means that the two layers of fabric sewn together with a liner where the seams run obliquely over the fabric without penetrating the garment side facing. This type of construction is commonly called floating spacers or full canvas.
With the advent konfektionens have bonded spacers almost become standard for today’s jackets. Usually fusible Vlieseline or other materials, making it possible to press and shape the easier jacket. At the same garment in danger of losing its suppleness.
Christoffer Parling is the Scandinavian agent for the Italian Mabro and Luciano Barbera. Besides producing for brands like Gieves & Hawkes and Louis Vuitton offer Mabro well made as a measure sewn under his own name there exclusively liquid shims used. The exception is the younger collection M57 which uses a semi-fixed structure. Luciano Barbera, sewn entirely by hand, also uses the brand of a floating structure. And Christoffer mean the difference between glued and liquid liners are great.
– Compared with glued inserts sewn gives considerably more contact points on the body. Glued-on garments generally have two contact shoulders. Liquid shims follow the garment body in a completely different way, this means that you may have a tight fit that still have movement which gives the garment a unique and more personal nature. The garment can be formed and also hold the mold to a greater extent.
Which parts of the jacket is mainly affected?
-For The jacket is mainly produced pieces (the chest), stroke and sleeves in the line, which is usually made by hand in these kinds of garments. Typically, the front of his jacket having insert, from the shoulder to the shiny finish. For beaten, it often becomes more evident. Pasted inserts gives a slightly more rigid form, and among the really poor clothing is beaten sometimes completely sealed. With liquid shim is beaten breast better while the transition between battles and front (slagbråktet) will be slightly softer.
-Two Detail that is often forgotten is the sleeve and jacket finish. There are also inserts for the garment shall follow the body better. Many have probably experienced coat sleeve slides up along skjortmanschetten, which stitched inserts can counter.
Is it possible to decide whether a jacket is liquid shim?
– The easiest way to know yourself is to gently pull his jacket fronttyg while keeping the back. The fabric is then lighter.
Christopher also stresses that liquid shim allow a closer fit than glued.
– It allows clearly more adjustments. Often there is more extra fabric under his jacket for a modification tailors take away. Likewise, it is possible to make minor adjustments. It is common for a person with high breasts may need to adjust beaten so that they do not depart from the chest. Especially for tvåknäppt low buttoning and where the battle is relatively long. Brejdel, which is the band behind the beaten, can then be short.
Last years’ jackets have used very narrow kind? Could it be affected by the broader impact higher demands on a smoother structure?
– Absolutely. Although it is largely a fashion issue, it is considerably more difficult to get to slagbråktet on a glued jacket because this construction easier lose shape.
At the same time points out that the concept Christoffer full canvas frequently used can be somewhat misleading.
– Actually, extends the concept of full canvas well beyond the shims. Usually when we talk about full canvas as it aims throughout the work behind the jacket where the garment parts when applied by hand. Italian manufacturers often use the term sartoria, which includes everything from the collar and is putting to the shims. The result of sewing these parts by hand is that the garment will be smoother without for that matter losing its slim silhouette. It allows, for example, shallow armholes and narrow sleeves.
As the material of sewn liners typically used horsehair. Often combined with cotton. Horsehair is simply put hair from the horse’s tail or a man. Unlike pure cotton which quickly lose their shape and wrinkle horsehair going to push to further shape the garment beyond the cutting shape. Christopher says that the state made in Italy prefer to use hair from the front of stallions mares.
– There are some Italian manufacturers who like to brag about this detail. And really, it is quite natural. Stallions urinates unlike forward tone, which makes the tail protected from ammonia. Whether this really matter, I would not speculate.
Although the latter is rather geeky facts than vital knowledge says Christoffer that liquid shim is largely just a matter of feeling and something that the carrier itself must learn to appreciate.
– It’s very difficult to argue for liquid liner. This really is a detail that requires a bit of support to really understand. Glued inserts has its advantages for those who want a more uniform feel in their clothes, but it does not give the same balance as liquid liners. It’s like driving a Porsche while knowing that there is something under the hood. During the work must never be underestimated.
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