Between industrial rock and Brazilian music, Phoebe Philo blows hot and cold on a fall/winter collection glamorous o and conceptual grammar are trying to merge to the best…
Phoebe Philo tackles this season to the notions of glamour and “sexiness”. Two concepts that the creative cr so far were carefully lives, but to which she d decides today to rub in order to try to provide a finishing “c linienne” d.
The C-line woman
Radically brain, the C line woman tries to inject a bit of fantasy and love her wardrobe. Bit coutumi re of the fact, she commits several blunders, including first degree na f is r v him rather touching. She however eventually make a salutary pause in its almost questioning m taphysique in rev both dressed to reassuring minimalism.
The locker room of Phoebe Philo alternates this season between toilets to glamour nerd and looks to the C line woman and keep feet on the ground. This is how the sleeves of sweaters such s c end fa we renaissance dresses borrow lingerie satin and d cups BRA, that coats parent of opulent faux fur, rapi c fabrics are point to the bare skin and the frocks dredons is d button on the shoulders. In the m me time, pousent chastely sweaters dresses the body, while capes and other combinations pants floutent silhouette.
However, amongst these various toilet to strong speech and little nuanc slip sometimes the mod managed r subtly the synth is of both worlds. We think the e saving a draft of conceptual corset dress, including strict coats printed z suave br, loose skirts sensual leather, the trench coats in soft leather the way female and Puritan volumes, but also and especially to the printed shirts na fs and lackadaisical split sleeves.
The strong points
Animal graphics s borrowing of children’s books give the collection a pleasant fra display espi gle. Their c t, s br z coats, dresses and skirts in soft leather, the bare back and the frocks r tro/minimalists of Hollywood divas should s reduce both buyers as clients C line.
The dress code
This season, the watchword is “long long”. The shirts are so d goulinant on length midi skirts, coats length flirting with that skirts they cover, while long sweaters close down wide pants.
Phoebe Philo embarks on the container for high-tech gadgets and imagine nothing less than a holster for guerri urban re having barter his magnum against a t l phone.
The British designer cr offers its contribution the trend “sneakers immacul are” by delivering a brief tennis – we looks like a shoe orthop dique of the future. Between d sensual ankle collar and end male carr, the ankle shoes leather tress (sometimes Dec) is r v slow as them much more interesting.
What I think
For this collection, Phoebe Philo has requested “how glamour could work in everyday life, while remaining authentic”. The answer is r v “C linienne”, know little obvious first view.
Wanting to streamline this notion (as Wikipedia r sume thus: “charm send so much, s production than an actress of cin my or a pretty woman exercised by his sensual attitude and its suggestive attire”), Philo delivers indeed toilets to the deliberately awkward details. Seeking express a new production the Yohji Yamamoto s, she’s having fun so d penailler his models. The result is av re unfortunately often artificial and close to the exercise of style, unconvincing plate like PomPoms or fur coats in silk Georgette. It is finally when she allows herself expensive l taken and escape this tacit obligation to deliver the nerd look the creative cr manages to convince. Put in the hands of a woman more adept of the Stan Smith as a frilly, the notion of glamour becomes a subtle alloy between sophistication, insolence, sensual comfort and rigour d e jou…