What makes you spend 100 euros on a used dress or 1800 on two 1930s Chesterfield sofas? The taste for vintage. A trend that has already infected a large minority of people in urban settings. Whether for aesthetic, cultural, sentimental or to assert themselves in society, many prefer relics to new objects. We reproduce the article about passionate about the “vintage” published in the magazine of October 21, 2006
Eccentric.Thing that does not happen with Amelia Antunes is to run the risk of going unnoticed whenever she leaves home.Be it in the morning, when you go to the neighborhood supermarket in Carnaxide, in the afternoon, when you stroll downtown, or at night, when you serve drinks behind Fluid’s counter, the bar in Santos that you own according to thesciencetutor.
Amelia is an example of an urban tendency, visible mainly in large cities: a group of revivalists who, for an aesthetic, cultural, sentimental or affirmation in society, at a given moment of their life begin to become more interested in the creations of the Past than the present.They wear dresses worn by our grandmothers, listen to vinyl records, and lose their heads for pieces of furniture from other times.
During the long nights spent at the bar, the businesswoman usually has Dr. Boris Vian and Heidi da Rosa Brava – her two dogs from the British breed Parson Jack Russell, which leads everywhere.But the fact that he easily becomes the center of attention is not only due to his showy figure – long hair, tall, tanned, and elegant body – or his friendly canyons.This is explained by its spangled look made up of colorful “toilletes-vintage”, almost all originating from the 60’s.
Amelia, 35, takes on the style of the “Flower Power” generation, essentially for an aesthetic choice.”They draw me in the colors, the design of the clothes, the patterns, the fabrics and the cuts,” he sums up.
The result is cinematic.It is not uncommon to find her wearing big hats and capelines, superlative sunglasses to disguise the maladies of dawns in clear, or to interpret the wobbly pose that her exotic dresses, a trend of fashion from other times, inspire her.His bar and the Happy Days revival shoe shop, of which he is a partner, are the extension of his preference.There are wallpaper-lined walls with motifs between pink and lettuce green, disco-sound beads, radios, clocks and pieces of furniture from the fifties and sixties. “I bought them in a shop in Figueira da Foz” .
It is in the accessories that Amelia most likes to dare.Antique handbags, necklaces, rings and bracelets that Amelia transforms with her own hands into ultra-kitsch objects.”I like to apply dolls, babies, snow white, dwarfs, Our Ladies of Fatima, to make them more fun,” he says.Kitsch is, moreover, its preferred way of interpreting “vintage”.”It makes me feel like I’m not the same as everyone else. I like having a unique presence,” he explains.Her own wardrobe sends us to a kind of grandmother’s trunk where dozens of dresses, skirts and coats are mostly hanging, second-hand.It does not bother you.”It’s very rare to find a vintage piece that has not been used on the market,” he says.
Cheap is good
The merchant confesses that it is abroad that she acquires most of her clothing.More particularly in London, the Camden Market fair and the Notting Hill district, as well as in the shops and fairs scattered throughout the center of Amsterdam.In this round, you do not spend much money.”Outside, vintage dresses are much cheaper and you will find a greater variety of models,” he explains.Experienced in this area, whenever you go on vacation to one of these destinations, take advantage and take an empty bag to stock up on new clothes and props.She is adept at bargaining, likes to fiddle around on street stalls, and guarantees that she “rarely” spends more than $ 100 on a dress.”I never miss ‘stock-outs’, I always lurk the news. I would, however, like the vintage trend to widen to give rise to more stores of this kind”, leaves the message.
Amelia went on to dress vintage since she began attending Bairro Alto in the early 90’s. It was around this time that the first stores with an alternative and revivalist stock (Ultra-violet and Bazar Paraíso, which However closed).
It has now become a kind of habit between friends and acquaintances to call her to borrow clothes to go to weddings.”The clothes I wear on a day-to-day basis are, for them, the ideal facts to attend at a ceremony of the sort,” he confesses amused.
“Homo-Acumulater.” It is with this neologism that graphic designer Carlos Guerreiro defines himself. “I have an obsession with knowledge.I am attentive to the present and to the past, and this is a cumulative process. “He rejects the epithet of revivalist, despite trying to recreate through his clothes the aesthetics of the bachelor postage warrior, eternalized in the films of the forties and fifties. Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr. are three of the male American figures who most inspire him when he stands in front of the mirror.
“I like the universe of seduction created by the gallants of the Dry Martini, my drink of choice,” he says.It is, moreover, his interest in jazz music – the bebop of Charlie Parker and Miles Davis in particular – and the taste that moves him through the cinema in general, from the days of the dumb, through the stylized cinema “noir” of 40s and 50s, to the present day, that arrived at this visual option.For the sake of attitude and identification.The irreverent French singer-songwriter Serge Gainsbourg is another of his musical preferences, from whom he collects several vinyl records.L’Étonnant is one of his favorites.
From a very early age preoccupied with his image, he begins at the age of 17 and asks his mother to make clothes more to his liking.”With such an eccentric touch of the 40s and 50s.”In the 1980s, living at her parents’ home in Almada, she went a long way to El Dorado, in Bairro Alto, the only vintage store in existence at the time, to buy the white shirts of the 70s, with a rubber collar, which Always enjoyed it.Years later, she became the usual customer of Rés-vés Campo de Ourique, in the neighborhood of Campo de Ourique, which has since become extinct, specialized in second-hand clothing.
His friends get used to his theatrical costumes.”They told me I could wear a skirt, which even they would have thought normal.”Having said that, he assures himself that he is shy and does not like to be seen.This despite the hats, spiky neckties, bright coats and grease shoes, in beak, which he uses in everyday life.
Nowadays he buys most of the clothes he wears through the Internet, more specifically on the E-bay auction site.”I’ve bought classic 1960s pants from the swing and rock ‘n’ roll universe. They have pleats, creases, and they’re wide down,” he recalls.But in terms of fashion, what Carlos likes best is to mix vintage pieces with clothes from current stylists.”I buy a lot of ‘high-fashion’ clothes.”
A sentimental question.It’s because of the connection to her maternal grandmother that 36-year-old free-lancer designer Patricia Sobral came to have a close connection with vintage.Especially with the furniture of the 50’s. Little resort to the period clothing.Complete dishes, Sputnik lamps, kidney-shaped tables, chests of drawers and many other period chairs are the property that he inherited from his grandmother ten years ago, which today combines several contemporary pieces in his home.Some pretty pop.A lego tower in the room painted a pistachio green, a Chinese dragon in the hallway ceiling, and many Japanese superheroes at the top of the fireplace with 18th century tiles.I gain the addiction by vintage, from time to time makes the round to the stores of old of the Place of the Chile, where he lives, in search of cheap relics.”I’m not a collector and I have to be selective not to tie up my house. That’s not great,” he clarifies.
Sign of refinement
Elegant.A kind of search for trouble in dressing is the way the architect Sónia Cardoso takes the vintage in her daily life.He became interested in pieces of clothing from other eras seven years ago, influenced by friends.”I was not afraid to take risks and wear whatever I wanted.”The fact that she goes to London six times a year to accompany her boyfriend, of British origin, has sharpened her preference even more.It guarantees that the vintage concept in England is a sign of refinement.”And if they are good and rare pieces, they are much more expensive than new pieces.”
Like Carlos, Sónia also hits the Internet for bargains.The Christian Dior striped dress, dated 1957, which she used at the photo shoot for the Express, was purchased at auction on the E-bay for only 86 euros.”A find!”The black Chanel suitcase, worth about 300 euros, was offered to her by a friend.Far from the baffle image that many associate with the used clothes, Sonia defends that the vintage should not look dated, but rather special and current.”We can not look like our granny!”(We should not look like our grandmother!)