Shirts is what you probably wear 70% of the time if you work.
This is one of the pillars of your wardrobe that is supposed to combine without problems with ties, jackets, sweaters and cardigans.
Yet you are not always satisfied with the rendering and you have the impression that something is wrong compared to those lookbook photo that seem adjusted to the millimeter.
To help you make the point, and to buy by better understanding your needs, we will decipher each of the elements that make up a shirt.
In this way you will be able to find out what’s going on in your current shirts and what to look for in your future purchases.
We are only going to be interested in shirts in a formal framework: it is on this that error forgives the least.
The neck is above all a history of morphology. Two simple criteria must be taken into account:
-the width and length of your face: the collar is to be considered as a frame that will balance the proportions of your face.
If it is particularly wide and round, it will be necessary to opt for a collar with long points, and with a narrow closure. The panels should be as large as to be proportionate.
If it is long, then it will be more a short neck with a rather wide opening.
-the length of your neck: once again of pure logic, the collar must rather be mounted on long necks, and rather low on the others.
Two types of collars exist for the formal (obviously only the rigid collars, those that can be worn without a tie without collapsing).
The French collar: It is the base collar, with rather narrow and long sides. It is neutral and very versatile, can be worn with or without a tie and easily attaches to most jacket lapel.
The narrow opening of this kind of collar favors the round and wide faces.
The Italian collar (also called cutaway collar): It is generally more open and available in different widths. It is traditionally worn with a tie and a particularly wide knot to properly fill it.
Italian collar shirts, however, are increasingly adopted in a casual context, worn without ties.
They are particularly adapted to lean people because they add horizontality to the silhouette.
They are suitable for long elongated faces.
-the round collar: also known as the club collar because it was at the very beginning exclusive of the students of Eton. It is a very precious and somewhat feminine collar (which is a bit like Col Claudine). A bit off to the office.
-the English collar : it is long and goes up high enough. It is therefore perfect for the faces a little round and wide with a long neck.
At the time of detachable collars, it was worn with a collar bar to hold it. The typical style of Boardwalk Empire pimps.
-the buttoned collar , also known as the American collar: it was introduced by Brook brothers in 1896, inspired by the sports shirts worn by the polo players. Too casual to be worn at the office.
-the collar officer or col mao: it is simply a straight collar without flaps
There are different types of wrists
Buttoned: this is the most common, it exists in version 1 or 2 buttons. The quality shirts have another button higher on the sleeve so that it adapts better to the shape of the arm once the sleeves rolled up.
Neapolitans: they are buttoned cuffs with two buttons that fold back on themselves, with rounded corners to avoid drooling on the sleeve of the jacket. It is an intermediary between the ordinary buttoned cuffs and the more dressed musketeers: on But very seldom sees them as ready to wear.
Musketeers: we find them on business shirts and high-end. They are ultra formal and far less suited to small budgets because of the cufflinks to buy. A detail more picky on which it is easy to deceive.
Various variations are made around the basic material: cotton.
The cotton popeline: it comes from Avignon and it is the most used. It alternates a thick warp thread and a fine weft thread to mix flexibility and consistency. It is said to be double plied when using a double warp yarn and a double weft yarn. This technique requires longer and therefore stronger cotton yarns (which has fewer defects over a longer length).
It is a versatile material that you can wear all year round.
Oxford is a rather coarser weave which uses a white string and a colored weft thread, thicker than for poplin.
The twill : It brings out the colors of plain shirts. The material is more insulating because of a tighter diagonal weaving: practical in winter but to avoid in summer. Especially twist twists.
Cotton flannel: a very light weave that uses rather thin, rather summery yarns.
The other materials are more intended for casual shirts, they will be addressed in another article.
White: An Overvalued Color?
By visualizing the formal shirt par excellence, it is probably white you see. And yet this is far from the color most suited to many skin tones, especially the lighter ones that look even paler.
Other flaws are to be noted: it is often perceived as too formal, and therefore unsuited to more casual environments. Likewise, they go badly with the casual dressing room (avoid especially the atrocious combo jean washed out and white shirt) and the textures a bit rough style tweed or big mesh.
They get dirty easily and are difficult to clean.
Finally, white is far from being a color so neutral with which one can combine everything and is difficult to marry with yellow, violet or burgundy that blend better with blue
Consider The Blue
Blue, according to its tones, is a color that flatter most skin tones: as you try, you will find the precise shade of blue that highlights your face without distracting attention.
Blue is also available in more materials: linen and cotton voile for summer, chambray for more casual frames and oxford or twill for winter.
In short, most men often tend to choose white by default, while in 90% of the cases blue is much more appropriate, especially if we do not wear a suit
Fit: How To Know If The Shirt Is To Your Measurements?
Two schools of thought clash.
First of all, those who wear their shirts under a suit, a jacket or a sweater: they reveal only the wrists, the collar and a little of the shirt’s body. They therefore consider that these three elements must be monitored and that an approximate fit will be concealed by the upper layers
The second school has a stricter view of the fit: its defenders keep in mind that in hot countries, and during warm seasons, it is difficult to wear anything over a shirt and that the slightest mistake will be immediately related.
The other argument is also that a badly fitting cut can quickly make undesirable folds on the front of the shirt that the jacket will not be able to hide.
We will therefore rely on this second school which seems far more foresight and study the main elements to check: collar, wrists, chest and size, length and armhole.
One should be able to slip two fingers with the neck closed completely. And do not forget that a new shirt necessarily shrinks after a few washes: so plan about a centimeter of margin.
The wrists should be tight enough so that the sleeve remains at the base of the thumb, without sliding down when you raise your arms.
For those who wear an enormous watch, the sleeve is slightly enlarged and it is ensured that it is stacked to the right length so that it does not cover too much the hand.
Waist Circumference And Chest Circumference
For waist size, think especially chest strap for your shopping on the internet and, if you have a little belly, waistline.
Allow at least 2 to 3 centimeters apart as your shirt will necessarily shrink with the first washings.
Try otherwise in the shop then take the measurements: you should not have tension on the buttons and no excess tissue at the hips.
You must be able to lift your arms without pulling the shirt off your pants. In the event that you also want to wear it outside the pants, it should not exceed by more than 10 cm. Here is an order of ideas:
The armhole is the opening of the sleeve at the level of the shoulder: is it wide and low or narrow and high?
In the ready-to-wear clothing in France, it is often unfortunately large and low: during the fitting it manifests itself through a surplus of tissue under the armpits.
When you wear your clothes close to the body, it is mostly narrow and tall to better fit the shape of your arms. And that’s what you’ll find on well-cut jackets and pullovers.
So be careful to avoid the combination that kills (your comfort): a shirt with a wide armhole and a jacket with a narrow armhole.
Setting A Budget: How Much To Invest?
A shirt is not synonymous with longevity according to Payhelpcenter: it is a cotton garment that is worn close to the body, which must be washed at least once every 3 ports.
Regardless of its quality, cotton will inevitably deteriorate as the washings: this reduces its life expectancy to maximum 3 years, at the rate of 1 or 2 ports per week.
So it is not necessarily a good idea to spend more than 100 euros on a shirt knowing that a jacket or a woolen coat are much more durable investments that are not directly in contact with the skin. You see) and whose material needs to be washed less often because of its hydrophobic properties (it moistens much less).
Invest wholesale in a quarter shirt what you’d be willing to pay for a nice jacket or coat.